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spacerman has contributed to 297 posts out of 665 total posts
(44.66%) in 487 days (0.61 posts per day).
20 Most recent posts:
Questions and Answers »
Need help cutting mosaic glass tiles Nov 17, 2009 03:24 PM
(Total replies: 1)
The mosaic tiles have to be marked and then removed from the mesh backing so they can be cut individually at the wet saw or with a pair of tile nippers (takes experience or lots of practice). 4" Angle grinders with a continuous rim dry dimond blade can also be used, however, they spin at 11,000 RPM and caution is advised. Tiles can be held with pliers that have been "taped" to resist slipping and marring. Outlining the outlet cover with pencil can also help you modify smaller cuts so they are easier to handle. As long as the tile cut is hidden behind the cover, no one will know if its shape is not perfect. A shim under the "ears" of the receptical may be necessary if you can't cut the tiles so they fit behind them. You can use small wood strips or small scraps of tile behind the "ears", providing you or someone else has not removed them, in which case the receptical would need replacing. Always start right angle counters at the apex of the angle with full tiles going in both directions. Hopefully the tiles at the counter ends are full tiles or near full tiles or you may improvise with decorative liners to compensate for odd measurements there. Mitering the tiles at the right angle is an option but only as a last resort or if the tiles are rectangular or of other unusual shapes. All miters usually look better with a grout joint equal in size to the rest of the installation's joints. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Yellow liquid formation on italian ceramic tile Nov 16, 2009 01:16 AM
(Total replies: 1)
I have to honestly admit that I am stumped with this one, because I know my trade and have always been able to come up with an answer for any tile related question that makes sense, so I am going way out on a limb with this one. Maybe someone is playing a trick on you by pouring "champagne" on your floor. Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Nov 16, 2009 at 01:33 AM
Questions and Answers »
Insulation behind cement board / Tile shower Nov 9, 2009 11:40 PM
(Total replies: 3)
Insulation in walls of a shower that is not on any outside walls is not necessary unless you want to muffle the sounds of the shower "a little bit" from adjacent rooms. Since all the rooms are at an ambient temperature, condensation on the reverse side of the tile backer boards should not be an issue. I hope you are using cement backerboards everywhere, including the ceiling, and the ceiling light must be "Vapor Proof") Full showers, walls, floors, ceilings 2 jambs a header and a curb is a difficult challenge for a novice or a seasoned floor tile installer that has never done such a shower. With little or no experience, you would need me by your side the entire time, and of course that would not be possible. Think twice or thrice before you start this project, and “Please”, do not rely on a "plumber to install your liner correctly, because most of them do not know how. About the only thing they know how to do is secure the liner in-between the sub-drain halves. The shower sub-pan must be pre-pitched with cement before the liner is installed, and the cement for the upper section of the shower pan must be hand mixed, not a store bought pre-mix. The folds in the corners and over the dam are the most difficult, even for the best installers. If you have watched an installation on one of the home improvement shows, do not mimic what they did, because your installation will fail. I have written much on this subject and you are welcome to a free copy of my detailed information. Send your e-mail address to: spacerman@tavytools.com and I will attach copies for walls, drains, and pans for you to review. If you can follow my directions, professional looking results are still a “maybe”. I am leaving for a 6-day business trip to San Francisco this morning, and if you request any of my documents, I would not be able to send them until I return to Florida on the 17th. I don’t mean to discourage you, I just want you to be aware. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Nov 9, 2009 at 11:41 PM
Questions and Answers »
Do I need to pull up all of my tile? Oct 15, 2009 09:01 PM
(Total replies: 1)
There are “no laws” pertaining to the use or non-use of "Cement Backerboards" (CBU) when tiling over questionable substrates. There are a multitude of products that you or others could use instead of CBU, including mine. You did not say what the substrate surface was that you tiled over. There are some surfaces that need specialty products and you may have not done your "homework" before you started your project. Repairs can be made, but loose tiles can be a prelude of more to come if your tile installation materials and tiling techniques were lacking in minimum standards. You are in a dilemma and you will have to give me more information before I can better advise you as to where you stand. Throwing good money after bad is not prudent, neither is getting one persons opinion or solution, unless of course "IT'S MINE". I am proud to be of service to you and others, and my advice comes from 48 years of solid experience and professionalism in an Industry that I love. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
need help finding discontinued Mannington tile Oct 8, 2009 05:37 AM
(Total replies: 1)
Your request is posted for all to see, but I wouldn't be to hopeful. If there is a location on your floor, as in a closet or under furniture, you can "steal" a tile to resolve this delemma. Need help on removal, just ask. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
HELP, beautiful ceramic shower and grout turning white! Sep 26, 2009 04:01 PM
(Total replies: 1)
Sorry about overlooking your question, but your message was smothered by the 17 messages from "wgy3035411". Grout discoloration, especially color fading or shading problems, can often are traced to "OE" aka operator error. The contents of the grout package can settle during shipment. Heavier particles to the bottom and lighter to the top. Bags are usually laid flat then tipped up then the container is opened and only enough of the contents are poured out when installations are small or have very small grout joints negating the use of the entire contents of the container that would ideally be mixed at one time in one container. The color pigments can be dispersed unevenly and opening a lid and pouring out a small portion can cause these kinds of complaints. Your comments about wet areas turning lighter verses the other grout joints also hints that sealers were un-effective or not used. Shower water and soap film can also enter pores or coat the grout leaving a light film behind after the walls and grout air dry. I always said dark grout turns light and light grout turns dark over time. There should not be enough Chlorine in your water to cause this fading or lightening. You have not said whether or not the grout lines appear darker while showering or while they are wet. If so the above scenarios could apply. “Aqua Mix Grout Colorant” is a waterborne epoxy that is easy to use and should not cause you any stress. Their darkest grey is Pewter. Check their web site for the color chart. Their product is sold in the “Orange” store and other tiles stores. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
granite tile over formica Sep 26, 2009 12:40 PM
(Total replies: 6)
I am glad you brought this oversight to my attention and with one quick phone call to the department manger at that Lowe's Store has resolved the problem. Someone had discarded the “Special Order Sales” Catalog Page for TAVY "Thin-Skin" that belongs in the “SOS” Red Metal Rack at their Flooring Dept Customer Help Desk, so they assumed it was no longer available. A laminated replacement page should be in their hands by Wednesday the 30th. My company headquarters is in S. Windsor CT and "SOS" Sales to Massachusetts and the other 49 states are shipped daily and because of my companies close proximity to Mass, it can get there overnight. Tiling over a countertop with granite tiles requires some experience or at least some basic knowledge about the "Does and Don’ts". I have written much on this subject but never mind repeating for the benefit of others, who have "tuned in late", so to speak. There are many tips and tricks and if you need helpful instructions, please write again. I can help anyone who can follow instructions to tile over and convert their existing laminate countertops into beautiful granite or ceramic tile "masterpieces" they can be proud of. The following is just a note of this writer’s feelings and thoughts about “Today”: We all know that new and old home sales are down nationwide, but we as Americans have developed a taste for new over old and if you can't buy new, you can at least change the old. Home remodeling has increased at a steady pace during this recession, sparked by the many entertaining and informative home improvement TV programs that have inspired homeowners to upgrade if they can't move to bigger or better. My company can attest to that, our sales are still up because they are directly reflected by that American way of life. Our great nation developed faster than any other country in the 50's because of "Planned Obsolescence". “Out With The Old, In With The New”, created jobs. The change was good, it was a breath of "fresh air", it inspired inventors who created jobs. Every time I walk into the factory that produces my TAVY Tile Spacers in York, Pennsylvania USA, I am awed by the huge facility and the entire staff of workers involved in making and packaging my product. It inspires me as an inventor to be Creative Again. Complacency can “choke” an individual, as well as a society, so let’s all Change our Floors, and Up-Grade our Bathrooms that give us Comfort and Relaxation. Don’t forget our tiled kitchens that inspire great cooks whose own creations make us swoon and fill our bellies. Just think back to the way it was just a mere century ago and be more thankful and appreciative for TODAY. I am old enough to remember the amazing changes in the lifestyles from the 40s to the Present. It is absolutely mind-boggling. I consider myself, “One of the Lucky Ones”. We can't get out from under this mess unless we go to the "Sock Drawer" or "Under the Mattress" and save a little less, and start "Spending" again. Everything Revolves Around It……Trust It…..because “The Cycle" of Life Depends on It. There is no other way. In the next three months, we as a struggling society can turn things around. I use to scoff at families that went into debt to buy presents during the year’s end holidays, but this extravagance always set the pace for the next year, besides it made us feel good and made us work harder to pay off the debt. A working man’s family happiness was always worth the sweat! Let’s bring back that part of “The Good Old Days”. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Sep 26, 2009 at 03:02 PM
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
granite tile over formica Sep 23, 2009 11:18 PM
(Total replies: 6)
My TAVY "Thin-Skin" is still an SOS Item in every Lowe's store that does not stock it as yet. Ask your Flooring Specialist" to enter Item # 89400 in their store computer. This should bring up a list including TAVY Enterprises. Thin-Skin will be model # 8500 and my 007 glue is #8501. If you check again and they still say they can't or won't, please let me know with the stores location so I can resolve the confusion. If you need tips and tricks, I am always at your service at: spacerman@tavytools.com or by my personal anytime cell # 860-559-8469 Thanks, Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
granite tile over formica Sep 22, 2009 03:48 AM
(Total replies: 6)
The glue is applied, the fabric is layed, The skim coat can be applied now or after the fabric is "set". If you have the extra time, waiting for the glue to dry for an hour or so or overnight is okay. Is it necessary? NO. Will it dry harder sooner? Yes. Do not cut the fabric at the counter's front leading edge, but let it fold over the front and trim it at the bottom of the overhang. Every installation has been successful with "raves" and no "claims". Need more help, write again. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Question --- Exterior Tile and Backer Board Sep 18, 2009 04:08 PM
(Total replies: 3)
Go to "Google" and look up "Perlight Concrete block" for a light weight concrete that will amaze you. I used to use this mix for shower walls when I was still an active tile installer. It substitutes "Perlight" a very light weight filler material, similar to "Vermeculight" used in plant soil mixes, instead of "sand". Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Question --- Exterior Tile and Backer Board Sep 18, 2009 12:07 AM
(Total replies: 3)
"NO" tiling over plywood of anykind outdoors. Cement Boards (CBU) are fine if you can fasten them securely to a stiff galvanized metal framework. I would opt to beef the "CBU" up to 1/2" stock. You could use stainless steel tappered head bolts and nuts or all weather epoxy or use both. Why are you showing a metal table in your photo if you intend to build cement bases for your tables? Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
Tile over Duradeck Sep 17, 2009 11:52 PM
(Total replies: 1)
DURADEK makes a product they call "TILEDEK" specifically designed for tile installations which is 60 mil thick. They claim that it is a tileable surface. I have no other feedback and there are no reviews pro or con. The company claims a 30 year success rate. No other info at this time. They do say you can install tile with thin-set mortar over "Tiledek", but don't mention "Liquid Latex Modified" which is the only installation setting material I would recommend over non-cementitious substrates, especially in outdoor applications. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
Need Advise Regarding Recently Installed Granite Sep 15, 2009 11:34 PM
(Total replies: 3)
I will assume that the yellow coloration is a natural defect. As far as the credit card company is concerned, they have no bargaining chips with "mother nature" and you picked out the stone. Their customer protection policy only extends to theft or miss-use of your card by others. They would have to hire an army of investigators to handle claims such as yours, and profits would nose dive. Getting back to your stone created by "mother nature". Giant mountains of granite do have some imperfections. These imperfections are sometimes sought out because of there unusual flow, which we call "movements". Granite that is uniform in color and pattern and pigmentation is sought after by consumers who are "peaceful" and indulge in perfection. This "quality" is high in demand and is usually found in the stone yards of "High End" dealers and priced accordingly. The more consistent as well as dense the stone is, the higher the price. Transversely, more spectacular the "movements" can fetch an even hire price by "the daring". In between the two lies stone like yours, a splatter here and a splatter there. It is customary to “tag” each slab with your name after inspection by you and the dealer, or his agent, so complaints like this never happen. If you were not asked to help in the selection or did not insist, you were not a smart shopper. Depending on the location of the "splatter", a fabricator, that is on the "ball", can manipulate the slab so those sections become waste cuts or use them in the sink and stove cutouts. I don't know what you paid for your stone but it should have been priced lower or the dealer should have given you extra to compensate for the area that might logically displease you. This “generosity” is normal for a stone yard with a good reputation. You do get what you pay for and should always be wary of "good deals". A company that is proud of their reputation would absorb the loss and change out the granite to please you, providing there is an exact match. You could try to be creative here as a decorator, and camouflage the area some way. Sorry, but had you not paid in advance you would still have to prove that you were wronged in a court of law and then the burden of proof would have fallen back in your lap. I am also assuming that the fabricator is not co-operating, in which case you are probably "stuck". Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
Need Advise Regarding Recently Installed Granite Sep 15, 2009 06:23 PM
(Total replies: 3)
Your picture is way out of scale. However, I do see the spots. Granite is an open faced stone, and as hard as it is, it can be stained. Most stains introduced from the surface can be drawn out with a marble poltice. There are granite and stone cleaning kits available at stone dealers, marble retailers and some of the "big Box" stores. Look for the "3 part kit" in the retail market place. Stones stained from below as a result of installation materials may be more difficult to remove. You did not say when you first noticed the stains. Slabs should always be hand picked by you with while acconpanied by the seller or his agent. Fabrication begins only after you have paid enough money in advance, with the balance upon completetion of the installation. A professional retailer/supplier/fabricator would not begin "cutting" before slabs are reviewed and "tagged" with your name. Did you? Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Crumbling Grout Sep 15, 2009 01:37 AM
(Total replies: 1)
First you must understand that grout is not waterproof; it has no bearing on "leaks". If it crumbles, it could be due to a variety of reasons. The most common of which is mixing it too thin in consistency; however, your remarks about crumbling in corners where the tub and tub "box" meets the floor and wall surfaces and along the counter top's back edges, raises questions about how these items were secured to the surrounding walls and floors. Grout cannot endure movements of any kind. If the tub "box" moves when you fill it with water and immerse yourself into it, the grout is sure to crack. If your kitchen counters move when you exert pressure on the leading edge of the counter it usually means that the cabinet installers did not use 3" screws to fasten them to the studs, or they did not use a 3" screw at every stud and tighten it/them adequately. If the subflooring is not at least 1 1/8" thick, floor deflection can cause grout to fail. Although grout is not waterproof, it does give you time to wipe or dry water spills on the floor before the water reaches the sub flooring. Flexible waterproofing caulk is always advisable in “wet” corners. If some tiles are tight jointed and others are not, it becomes a problem that the builder has to discuss with the tile layer he hired. All joints must be as uniform in width as possible. No ceramic tiles should touch one another, even in inside corners. Maybe your builder is a "beginner" and does not periodically check workmanship by his sub-contractors, or maybe he hires Un-Skilled labor? The leak in the ceiling could be from water spills soaking into unprotected wood (where the grout and caulk is also missing), or there is a poor glue weld/s at the PVC waste water line/s. Plugged "weep holes" in the shower drain can back water up to a point where careless installations of waterproof liners can allow backed up water to overflow. Liners not clamped securely into the sub-drain is another. These are the “common” causes for the problems you are facing. Remember, Band-Aid Treatments usually fail in the first week after the home warranty expires. Pay for an expert tile contractor to review your issues; it will be worth it!!! Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
What's Hot & What's Not »
Liquid Floors? Sep 13, 2009 09:59 PM
(Total replies: 1)
Sorry, we can mention sources only if they are answers to a specific tile question put to the forum by a member visitor. Armen Tavy
What's Hot & What's Not »
Looking for modern tiles? Sep 11, 2009 04:46 PM
(Total replies: 4)
It is nice to see that professionals are also visiting our forum and viewing what I write. I will always try to stay "Ceramically Correct". Welcome to Kennedy Tile in Phoenix Arizona!!! Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Sep 12, 2009 at 01:53 PM
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
Bullnose installation standards Sep 10, 2009 10:53 PM
(Total replies: 4)
I have to settle this matter here and now, because of the request for “Standards”. We could get 10 installers from ten different locations in the USA, or around the World for that matter, and get a variety of answers, none of which the Tile "Industry" has a right to critique. You have to understand that the Tile "Industry" does not tell installers what designs or configurations an installer must adhere to, the "Industry" only tells, or better yet only suggests, that the installer use tried and approved techniques to set the tiles; and should the installation fail because the suggestions or guidelines were not followed, it is only his loss in time and payment, with no sympathy from the "Industry". Transversely, the "Industry" will support a grievance between a tile installer and his customer, if his installation failed because of faulty installation materials. What may look good to you may repulse others somewhere else in the country or the world making any “standards” in one place a standard for others elsewhere a mute point. I always took pride in being a non-conformist, and did many unusual and creative installations by cutting tiles into different configurations and using the parts in ways they were not intended by the manufacturer. Could the manufacturer get upset with me because I did so, absolutely not, because it is none of his/their business, only mine and my customers how I/we choose to use or modify the use of their product/s. The customer is the one that is paying the bill, so the customer gets it the way he wants; what the customer cannot do, is release the installer of his responsibility to use good judgment when asking him to tile over a substrate that is or might be a questionable substrate to tile over. The professional installer is "liable" only for the quality and the integrity of the tile installation, not the “design” by others. I will give you a rather far-fetched example to better illustrate this: Could a paying customer ask an installer to set tile on/over his leather sofa? The customer could promises to pay, the installer could try, but the installer would definitely be a fool to think he might be paid for complying with a request he knew would not work satisfactorily. The customer could ask, the installer could tile, the customer could change his mind and refuse to pay after the fact, and the installer would not have any legal right to get or demand payment for agreeing to comply with a request that he knew could not possibly work; the matter would probably be written off as a "fool’s errand" by a judge. Your request was not unreasonable and the installer should have complied. End of story. Profanity, even in its lightest form, is frowned on in this forum. "Upset" would have been a better choice of words and "assumptions" are not a valid reason for defense. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Sep 10, 2009 at 10:55 PM
Installation Tips & Tricks »
Recently, I bought some pebble Sep 8, 2009 12:14 AM
(Total replies: 1)
Not enough information in the question". You must tell me what surface you will be tiling over Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
Black stain on white porcelain, unglazed, unsealed tiles Sep 3, 2009 06:45 PM
(Total replies: 5)
Mat finish tiles should be protected from staining when installing Black Grout using appropriate sealers or, it would make better sense to use an epoxy grout that should not stain the tiles during the grouting procedure. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy |
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