Tile How-To: >> Archive 1 Floors Interior
Welcome to the interior floors “how to” section. This section will detail the tiling process in a photographic step by step format. Keep in mind what you have learned from previous sections concerning the choice of tile, layout considerations, and desired methods. Also, remember to follow the Manufacturers instructions for the products that you choose to use.
CONCRETE SUBFLOOR:
In the first photo, we see a residential bathroom floor. After the carpet was removed, the pad is visible.
Note that the carpet was left extra long at the doorjambs to allow the length to be trimmed after the tile is installed. Once the carpet and pad was removed, we see the original vinyl probably installed when the home was new. A razor floor scraper accomplishes this removal. Its removal was necessary, as it was no longer bonded to the concrete especially near the toilet and shower.
Next the carpet tack strip is removed with the use of a hammer and wide pry bar.
Next the baseboards are removed. Be sure to score the paint above the baseboards with a razor knife to keep damage to the adjoining paint to a minimum.
Note that a crack was discovered in the slab after the carpet and pad was removed. By following the Manufacturers instructions, a crack suppression system was installed.
Due to the dimensions, the choice for a proper layout was 8”x8” tile. The tile selected is rated for floor use and is of a quality to give good performance in a residential application for years of service.
In this photo, the concrete was checked to determine whether the surface is out of plane in excess of ¼” in 10 feet. The concrete is then evaluated for any surface contaminants like grease, oil, paint, or curing compounds. If water is placed on the dry concrete puddles up without being absorbed, there are probably surface contaminants. These contaminants should be removed to assure a proper bond.
The door molding should be trimmed to allow the tile to slip underneath to the jamb. This is accomplished using a jamb or similar saw placed on top of a tile for the correct height.
This photo shows the layout lines that form a grid pattern for a soldier course tile installation. Note that every attempt is made to allow for full tile. Where cuts are necessary, the layout is adjusted to allow for larger cuts or full tile. The tile should extend into the doorjamb so that the tile and carpet interface in under the closed door. This is done for a more aesthetic appearance when the door is closed and the bath is in use.
The next photo shows the thin set mortar application. Note that the flat side of the trowel in used to “key in” the mortar into the concrete within the lines.
This photo shows the combing of the thin set mortar. The trowel is held 45° to the concrete and that angle is held uniformly throughout the installation. Changes in the angle will change the depth of the mortar. This step can be mastered with practice.
The next photo shows the tile placed and lightly beaten in with a mallet. This is to insure that the tile is seated into the mortar bed. After beating, the tiles are aligned with the layout lines.
This photo shows the pulling up of set and beaten in tiles to verify minimal coverage of thin set mortar. This coverage should be 80% according to ANSI or greater depending on the application.
The steps involved in applying the mortar, beating in, and alignment are repeated throughout the installation until the floor is completely tiled. Note that the necessary cuts are completed while the job is in progress and that the installer does not “paint himself” into a corner. On larger jobs, the cuts can be done after the bulk of the floor has been set and has cured. Care should be exercised when moving over an un-grouted floor by being sure to step near the center of the tiles.
Note from the following series of photos how cuts can be accomplished. Remember to leave a ¼” gap at the perimeter for expansion.
This photo shows the application of the tile base. Remember that the 90° joint should be filled with a sealant and not hard grout.
The following photos detail the process of cutting around the toilet receptor. These tile needs to be as “on-plane” as possible so that the toilet can be reinstalled properly.
This photograph illustrates the interface between the existing fiberglass shower pan and the new tile floor. This joint should be filled with a sealant not hard grout.
Remember that during the tiling process, care should be exercised to keep the joints between the tile clean and free from excess thin set and any contaminants. This will make the following grouting process much simpler.
Next the grouting process. Mix the grout according to the Manufacturers instructions. Grout small areas at a time. If recommended, pre-moisten the joints with water not leaving puddles or standing water in the joints.
In this photo the grout is forced into the joint with the grout float held at approximately 45° diagonally across the face of the tile.
The next photo shows the excess grout being cut off the face of the tile using the float again.
In this photo the sponge is used to “tool” the joints to a smooth uniform depth. The sponge should be drawn across the tile face diagonally to the joints. Try not to dig out too much of the grout in this process. Do not overwork the joints and fill any pinholes or voids. This can be accomplished by thoroughly wringing out the sponge and by not applying excess pressure to the sponge. This step can be mastered with a little practice.
Once the grouting is finished and the surface is free from grout residue follow the Manufacturers curing instructions. The Manufacturer of this grout recommended “misting” the grout for a curing period of three day. This was accomplished with a spray bottle adjusting the nozzle to a fine mist.
Following the curing period, thoroughly clean any grout haze with a sponge and water. For tough or stubborn haze, use an abrasive pad being careful not to scratch the tile surface. For other methods, look in the Tile Doctor section on floors.
Be sure to use a sealant at all 90° joints not hard grout.
When the floor is complete, reinstall the toilet and finish the carpet interface properly. These photos detail the installation of carpet “z” bar and tack strip.
Here is the final results of the project.
Keep an eye on this section for methods used in tiling wood sub floors using plywood, mortar bed, and backer board.
