Tile How-To: >> Showers


             

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Ceramic, porcelain, and stone tile in beautiful tile showers is the focus of this section. Right now this section has ceramic tile being set on a cement mortar bed in a completely tile lined shower.

For the selection of tile and method of installation visit the section on showers and tubs .

The following set of photos and text concern the tiling of a residential shower using a one coat mortar method on solid backing. The ceramic tile chosen was a ceramic wall tile and the floor was also tiled.

This job originated from a desire to replace only the shower pan as it was leaking badly. When the old pan was removed, it was determined that the entire tiled shower had to be replaced. The original builder made several critical errors that resulted in the failure of the shower pan. These errors were not repeated and are pointed out in this section. Please refer to the section: replace leaking shower pan and replace water damaged sub floor for more details.

Note in this first photo that the water damaged floor has been replaced with a suitable substrate of ¾ exterior plywood.

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If possible the two-piece shower drain should be positioned in the center of the floor. Have a qualified plumber install the drain and make sure the plumber aligns the two screw holes either diagonally or parallel with the side walls.

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If necessary, have the plumber install the new shower valve. Specify the finished wall distance carefully. In this case there is ½ of drywall (solid backing), 5/8” of mortar bed, and ¼ of tile. This means that the finished wall will measure 1 3/8”-1 ½ from the face of the stud. Be sure to check that measurement checks out prior to covering up the plumbers work.

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In the next four photos, we see a shower dam assembly. The assembly can consist of 3-5 2” X 4” stacked one atop another. Each is securely fastened to succeeding layer. The boards should also be toe-nailed into the shower jamb lumber.

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Note: The original builder of this shower used an open framing for the dam that did not properly support the shower pan membrane partially leading to its eventual failure.

The backing seen here consists of ¼ exterior grade plywood requested by the membrane installer. 2” X 12” joist lumber nailed between the studs above floor level will work also. The point here is to have a solid surface for the pan membrane to be stapled/adhered to.

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Apply felt to the floor where the shower pan pre-slope will be installed. The installer can mark the sill plate (bottom row of 2” X 4”) or do as this photo suggests.

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In this photo, the installer has folded and turned up the edge of the felt to a height that represents the total necessary pre-slope height. In this way, the installer needs only to follow the top of the felt when applying the mortar to establish the proper slope.

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Note: The original builder did not pre-slope the shower pan prior to the membrane installation. This contributed greatly to the failure of the shower pan.

Install the 2.5-pound metal lath or suitable reinforcing wire to the area to receive the mortar pre-slope. Keep the wire well away from the drain. Staple or nail the wire to the sub-floor.

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Apply the mortar bed (wall mortar is ok for the pre-slope) to the wire with a finish trowel or wood float. Check the pre-slope periodically with a small spirit level to ensure that the water will head toward the drain. Allow the pre-slope time to cure prior to the application of the shower pan membrane.

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Here is a detail photo of the two-piece shower drain with water test stopper ready for the shower pan membrane to be installed. Make sure that the plumber cuts the waste pipe at or slightly below the lower flange of the shower drain. This will ensure that no water gets backed up behind the drain waste pipe while the shower is in use.

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Be sure to visit the section on ceilings .

 

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An alternative to the "hot mopped" shower is the rolled or sheet applied membrane. This is the most common shower pan membrane. The installation methods and requirements are nearly identical to the "hot mop" method. Think of the liner as replacing only what the technician did. Look at these photos for and idea.